1. Homepage
  2. Environmental health
  3. Pest Advice (1)

Pest Advice (1)

Contents

Notice

Please note: we do not offer a pest control service. 

The Council discontinued the Pest Control Service with effect from Friday, 17th May 2013.

Our Pest Advice Sheets give you advice and information about a particular pest. 

For more information or advice relating to a particular type of pest, please make an Environmental Health Enquiry.

Unfortunately, as a local authority, we are unable to recommend a particular contractor but you can find details of alternative companies on the Internet, in the Yellow pages or in the local press.

Ants

What are they?

There are 41 different species of ant living in the UK. The one that causes most problems for people is the garden or black ant (Lasius Niger), which is 3.5 to 5 mm long and dark brown to black in colour. Black ants usually nest outdoors and in lawns, flower beds, under paving stones, and in walls. Although they are not a health hazard, they can be a nuisance as they can find their way into homes in large numbers. They enter homes in search of sweet foods, getting in through small gaps in masonry, doors and windows. 

Ants are not just pests. They also feed off insects and act as scavengers in the garden.

The queen ant lays eggs in late spring which hatch into larvae after 3-4 weeks. She rears the larvae for three weeks after which they pupate. From the pupae emerge the first brood of worker ants which forage for food and tend subsequent broods.

Winged male and female ants emerge between July and August and mating takes place on the wing during this time, after which the males die. The mated females shed their wings and dig a cell in the soil where they stay until the following Spring.

Can I treat them?

You can treat ants yourself with crawling insect insecticide. Apply a residual insecticide* to the entrance of the nest and wherever ants have entered your home. Inside your house, you should put insecticide behind the sink unit, skirting boards, around doors window frames, waste pipes and other pipes, trying to create a band of insecticides over which the ants would have to cross to enter your home. Make sure you also apply the insecticide to small cracks and crevices as. Ants can get through very small gaps.

To make sure you get rid of problem ants you will need to find their nest. Follow the ant trails and look for small entrance holes in the ground surrounded by small piles of fine earth. Once you have found the nest, follow the instructions on the insecticide about dealing with ants’ nests.

*Always refer to the product instructions BEFORE use and follow these at ALL times.

Bedbugs

What are they? 

Bedbugs are small insects that are commonly found in beds. They feed off blood and can cause discomfort if they make their home in your bed.

They cannot fly and must either crawl or be passively transported on clothes, furniture or commonly luggage after visiting a hotel or hostel etc... They are able to survive many months without feeding. The hiding place will be close to where the host sleeps; in the bedframe, mattress, bedside furniture, skirting, behind wall paper - anywhere that provides dark harborage during the daylight hours for these nocturnal creatures.

Bedbugs are not regarded as disease carriers, but with their blood feeding can cause severe irritation to some people. The bite often gives rise to a whitish hard swelling which distinguishes it from a flea bite which leaves a dark red spot surrounded by a reddened area.

Can I treat them? 

If you have a bed bug infestation or if you or your family have been bitten by bed bugs some of the things you can do yourself, include:

  • Wash all bedding, draperies and clothing in hot water on a regular basis.
  • Vacuum and steam clean carpets
  • Use insecticides* to get rid of bed bugs that are hiding in the walls and other large objects - choose insecticides with pyrethrins as an active ingredient and only use insecticides labelled for households use.
  • Bed bugs can be difficult to get rid of because they hide so well.

*Always refer to the product instructions BEFORE use and follow these at ALL times.

Bees

What are they? 

Bees are the main pollinators of many of our wildflowers, crop and vegetation. Without them these plants would struggle to reproduce and could result in other species being able to dominate our landscape. The countryside could lose its colour and many rare plants may disappear.

Bee numbers are dropping all the time and since 1950s the population of some species have halved.

Therefore Bassetlaw District Council promotes the safeguarding and protecting of all bees. We will never undertake a treatment unless the bees are a direct threat to human health.

Bumble Bees

Bumble bees are non-aggressive and social insects. They are a large, hairy, black and yellow bee with a bumbling clumsy flight.

Bumble bees rarely sting. They will only sting if they are handled roughly or feel threatened.

They never swarm or attack. They are more interested in going about their business pollinating the environment.

They usually die off by the end of September.

Bumble bees create nests which last one summer. The nests are a simple structure covered in moss and are usually located on the ground or under wood piles/sheds.

If you notice a bumble bee nest we recommend that you take no action as they are unlikely to cause you a problem. If nests are moved the bees often die and this should always be a last resort.

Masonry and Mining Bees 

These bees are also a non-aggressive solitary bee. They are not a threat to human health as they do not sting (they do have a sting but it is unable to penetrate the skin).

Masonry and mining bees have a hairy body that appears brown and orange. Compared to a wasp they are fatter and do not have an elongated body.

Both species breed early and are active from March until the end of June. The bees will die off once egg laying is completed in June.

To lay their eggs the bees make small passages in soft mortar of walls or occupy existing holes. The holes are then sealed ready for the new bees to emerge the following year. Mining bees have similar practices but lay their eggs in soil (preferring sandy areas).

Honey Bees 

Honey bees are hugely beneficial to the environment. Honey bees have dark brown and black stripes as opposed to wasps which are bright yellow and black.

If you see a large mass of bees hanging in a tree, hedge or post about the size of a football, this will be a swarm of honey bees. Swarms are caused when a group of worker bees leaves the colony to form a new colony with a queen. They will remain here temporarily (this could be a few days) until the scout bees return with a new location. However, if the swarm is still there after a week it is unlikely to move on.

Honey bees are usually non-aggressive only reacting if they believe the swarm is under threat. Bassetlaw District Council are committed to saving swarms and re-homing them in safe locations.

If you find a swarm do not panic! Contact the Environmental Health team for contact details of local beekeepers, who may collect the swarm or give you advice.

Bee and Wasp Stings

Advice about bee and wasp stings is available on the NHS website.

While it is quite rare, some people can have an immediate allergic reaction to being stung. This is known as anaphylactic shock, which can sometimes be fatal. In this instance dial 999 immediately for an ambulance.

Carpet / Fur Beetles

What are they? 

Beetles such as carpet beetles are commonly found in our homes. Although they pose no risk to health they can be a nuisance and cause damage to textile products such as wool, fur, leather, silk and other natural fibres.

The beetles are small, round and about the size of a ladybird (0.15 cm to 0.4 cm in length). They are dark brown or black with mottled patches of white or yellow. Fur beetles are the same size but have a single white spot on each wing.

The female will lay between 20 and 100 eggs in spring/early summer on furs, wool and natural fibres.

The eggs hatch into brown, hairy larvae, known as woolly bears.

The woolly bears avoid light and curl into a ball when approached. It is the larva that causes the damage, feeding until they are ready to turn into a carpet or fur beetle.

How to prevent an infestation

  • Vacuum regularly (especially in areas under storage heaters or at the skirting junction)
  • Remove old / unoccupied birds' nests from the eaves and loft spaces
  • Remove dead birds or rodents when found in chimneys, under floors or in loft spaces
  • Avoid storing goods with natural fibre content (like old carpets and clothing) in roof spaces as they are potential food sources 

Can I treat them?

The best way to treat an infestation of carpet or fur beetles is to use a suitable insecticide*. You can buy this from your local DIY or garden centre.

*Always refer to the product instructions BEFORE use and follow these at ALL times.

Moths

What are they? 

Moths are considered a nuisance pest and not a risk to human health.

Once a moth reaches adulthood they will lay their eggs amongst materials which will supply food for the developing larvae after they hatch. It is the larvae not the adults which cause damage to property.

It can be difficult to prevent problems with moths as they are attracted to light and can easily find their way into homes through open windows. They can also be attracted into the structure of the home by birds’ nests and invade the house from there.

Typical signs might be: 

  • Damage to materials / clothes in wardrobes or cupboards.
  • Webbing that resembles spiders' webs (this often contains pupal cases).
  • Small piles/collection of dust (frass) in the bottom of wardrobes or cupboards (caused by their damage).
  • Damage to carpets.
  • Moths flying out of wardrobes / cupboards.

Larvae tend to consume natural fibres such as cotton, wool, silk and fur and man-made fibres with 25% natural fibre content will also be at risk.

A few simple precautions can help prevent the problem: 

  • Clothing / fabric stored over a long period should be in sealed plastic bags or cases.
  • Check clothing for signs of moths and larvae (especially those not often removed from the wardrobe or cupboards).
  • Vacuum and dust regularly as moths are attracted to the nutrition in organic dirt, paying particular attention to hidden areas inside cupboards and wardrobes. 
  • Check the loft space, gutters and eaves for bird nests. (Some birds are protected and should only be removed after nesting).
  • Seal harbourage points in the wall or skirting. 
  • Insecticidal strips* can also be hung in wardrobes. 

Can I treat them?

  • Affected areas should be thoroughly vacuumed. 
  • Remove and dispose of any damaged fabric / clothing.
  • Inspect any salvageable clothing or fabric and remove any larvae before washing or dry cleaning. 
  • Spray wardrobes, drawers, around carpet edges, skirting boards and cracks with an insecticidal spray* which you can get from most DIY/Garden Centres.
  • It may be advisable to see the assistance of a competent Pest Controller if you suspect you have a large infestation. 

*Always refer to the product instructions BEFORE use and follow these at ALL times. 

Cockroaches

What are they? 

Cockroaches can contaminate food with their excrement, give out an unpleasant odour, and many people can get allergic skin reactions to them. For these reasons they need to be effectively controlled.

Cockroaches are large insects with whip like antennae and two pairs of wings. The most common species found in the UK are the Oriental and German cockroaches. They can gather together in large numbers if left unchecked.

Cockroaches like the warm, humid conditions found in a typical home. Domestic conditions also give them a good source of food as well as shelter. They are nocturnal, spending the day in such areas as sinks, drains, the back of cupboards and around fridge motors

Oriental Cockroach - Oriental cockroaches are often found in cooler and less humid areas such as drains and basements. They thrive in buildings with service ducts and complex plumbing.

The female lays her eggs in a capsule containing up to 16 eggs and carries it to an area where the young can find food. The eggs hatch into small versions of the adults, or nymphs, after six to twelve weeks. The nymphs, which resemble the adults except for lack of wings, take between ten months and two years to grow to adulthood. Adults live for about 18 weeks.

German Cockroach - The egg capsules of German cockroaches contain up to 32 eggs. The female carries the egg case for some time and drops it when the eggs are close to hatching. The nymphs take approximately 14 weeks to grow into adults and can live for approximately 34 weeks.

How can I treat them? 

High standards of hygiene can stop cockroaches from getting to food while sealing cracks and crevices, especially in areas where food is prepared, can deny the insects shelter. If you live in a block, treatment needs carrying out on a block basis.

You can treat yourself using cockroach killing insecticide*, applying it to areas where cockroaches shelter such as cracks, and around refrigerators/washing machines.

*Always refer to the product instructions BEFORE use and follow these at ALL times.

Earwigs

What are they? 

Earwigs are dark brown and between 10 and 14 mm long, have wings but never fly. Usually they are active at night, spending the day in moist, shady areas such as beneath stones or in cracks in walls. They eat a variety of things, from flowers, fruit, vegetables to leaves and decaying organic matter. Some earwigs are predatory, feeding on aphids, insects and spiders.

Earwigs spend most of their time outdoors in moist damp places, but if the weather is hot and dry for a long time they may go indoors. They are a garden pest and can cause damage to flowers, fruit and vegetables.

Eggs are laid in the spring by the female some 4 to 7 cm beneath the surface of the soil, in batches of around 30. The eggs hatch after a few days and the young nymphs, which are smaller versions of the adults, are tended by the mother until the first moult. After 4 moults, the young adults leave the nest and fend for themselves. Earwigs live through the winter as either adults or eggs.

How can I treat them? 

Get rid of damp, moist conditions found in sub floor spaces and along house foundations, for example leaking gutters, drainpipes etc. Sealing gaps around doors, windows, pipes and other points of entry, proofing air vents with insect screening mesh, especially at the ground level, will prevent earwigs getting in your home. Changing the landscape around the house producing a clean, dry border around the foundation walls and using gravel or ornamental stones can make an attractive barrier against earwigs and other pest invaders.

Effective chemical control can be achieved by applying residual insecticide* barriers externally around the house.

*Always refer to the product instructions BEFORE use and follow these at ALL times.

Feral Pigeons

What are they? 

Feral pigeons are descended from domesticated rock pigeons that returned to the wild. They have adapted to urban life and substituting cliffs for the ledges of buildings.

They are now common in many urban areas substituting cliffs for the ledges of buildings and feed on scraps of food discarded by humans and spillages from food outlets.

Feral pigeons can breed throughout the year with March to July being the peak times. Incubation lasts just 18 days and fledging takes place within 5 weeks.

Feral pigeons are now considered a major pest, particularly in urban areas and pose a significant risk to human health for the following reasons:

They have the potential to transmit diseases through their droppings such as salmonellosis and ornithosis.
Droppings cause unsightly mess and can lead to slippage accidents on pavements, fire escapes and ladders etc.

Dried droppings can be inhaled in confined spaces such as roof voids. This can potentially cause respiratory issues.

Droppings and dead bodies can attract flies and other insects as they provide a food source.

Pigeon droppings are acidic and can therefore cause corrosion damage.

The buildup of nesting material, droppings and dead pigeons may lead to blocked drains / gutters causing property maintenance issues.

Can I treat them? 

Prevention is better than cure and there are many things you can do to discourage feral pigeons from your property: 

  • If you feed wild birds in your garden, use suspended wire feeders and always clean up any spillages
  • Ensure that any food which is kept outside for pets or livestock is stores in sealed containers.
  • Keep bin areas clean and tidy and ensure food waste is stored and disposed of properly.
  • Block any gaps where birds could gain access to your roof. (i.e. replace any broken roof tiles, broken windows and repair any eroded pointing).
  • Install an anti-roosting system such as netting, wires or spikes. 
  • If you are struggling to eradicate the problem, you are advised to contact a private pest control company if you believe you require any treatment. 

Fleas

What are they? 

Adult fleas are parasites, living off warm-blooded animals. Different species of flea live off different animals. Cat fleas are approximately 2-3 mm in size, brownish, and are responsible for the majority of flea infestations.

Their increase in numbers in recent years has been caused by an increase in the number of people keeping pets and by the tendency for pet owners to neglect cleaning their pet's bedding properly.

Central heating provides the necessary warmth needed for fleas to breed and fitted carpets provide relatively undisturbed environments for flea larvae to develop.

Flea bites appear as a tiny dark red spot surrounded by a reddened area which can be intensely irritating and usually persists for one or two days.

Flea eggs are about half a millimetre long, pearly-white in colour and are laid on the pet or in its bedding. Four to eight eggs are laid after each blood meal, a single female producing between 800 and 1000 eggs during her lifetime which may be as long as two years.

The eggs hatch in about one week into larvae which live in dark, humid places such as animal bedding and carpet fluff, feeding on debris and adult flea excrement. A cat's bedding may support 8000 immature and 2000 adult fleas.

After two to three weeks, the larvae spin cocoons and pupate and may spend winter in this state. The adult flea will then be stimulated to emerge by the vibrations set up by a passing host. Development from egg to adult is normally completed in 4 weeks but at low temperatures will take much longer.

How can I treat them? 

Regular cleaning prevents fleas breeding sites and contributes significantly to their control. You should remove accumulations of debris from cracks and crevices such as the cracks between skirting boards and floorboards, and the whole area thoroughly cleaned.

You can use over the counter insecticides* to treat your home if it is infested. Before you start treatment you should thoroughly clean your home with a vacuum cleaner. Placing a small quantity of insecticidal dust onto a carpet and vacuuming it up will control fleas, which get sucked into the cleaners’ bag. After this treatment, avoid vacuuming for between seven and ten days.

Pets such as cats or dogs should be treated using veterinary products which have been specifically formulated and registered for use on pet animals. Always make sure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Pets' bedding must also be thoroughly laundered.

*Always refer to the product instructions before use and follow these at all times. 

Grey Squirrel

What are they? 

The grey squirrel was introduced into Britain in the late 1800s. They have become widespread in both woodland and urban areas. In urban areas the squirrel often lives and breeds in roof spaces, using loft insulation and other materials to create a large nest (drey).

They can cause costly, potentially dangerous damage by gnawing facia boarding, roof joists, stored belongings and stripping electrical wires.

Food left out for birds can attract grey squirrels to your garden. They can cause damage to the local environment by stripping bark from trees and by raiding birds’ nests for their eggs and fledglings.

Even if you do not see squirrels, you may suspect you have them. The following are signs that squirrels are present:

  • Noises in your loft space
  • Droppings shaped like a raising an 1/4 inch
  • Damage bird feeders
  • Damaged fascia boards and electrical wires from gnawing
  • Loft insulation dragged into piles

Prevention is better than cure and there are many things you can do to avoid having a problem with grey squirrels:

  • If you feed wild birds in your garden make sure you are using mesh feeders or suspended tables and have squirrel proof mesh where possible. 
  • Do not put bird food directly on the ground and clear up any spillages from your feeding station.
  • If you have any mature trees, cut back any branches which are overhanging your property.
  • Squirrels are excellent climbers, so ensure that you trim any wall climbing plants to prevent them reaching from ground to roof level, giving easy access to your property.
  • Ensure prompt repair of fascia boards and roof tiles to eliminate any entry points. 

If your property is joined to another property (semi -detached or terraced) you should discuss the issue with your neighbours and agree a joint approach.

Can I treat them?

The most effective method of removing squirrels from a loft space is by using baited cage traps. These can be purchased from good garden centres and hardware stores.

Make sure traps are located away from children, pets and other wildlife at all times and are checked on a regular basis.

If you choose to use traps, it is important that you remember the responsibility of disposing of the trapped squirrels will be yours, and must be done humanly or you could get prosecuted.

Under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 the Grey Squirrel is a recognised foreign pest species. This legislation requires that any live trapped squirrels are killed and not released.

For this reason we recommend that you hire professional pest controllers so that the works are carried out safely and in accordance with legal requirements

House Mice

What are they? 

 

House mice can live and breed in houses, buildings and other structures such as garden sheds, which give them protection from the cold and wet weather and which provides them with the three essentials for survival - food, water and shelter. Although an abundant supply of food is preferable, house mice can survive on relatively poor diets, eating between 3 and 4 grams of food a day and can survive without access to free water, obtaining their daily needs from their food.

The ideal environments for house mice are buildings with dead spaces and harbourages free from disturbance and close to food and water. They are extremely good climbers, climbing walls, pipes, cavities and ductings. They have very hard incisor teeth which can penetrate materials such as concrete, lead and aluminium. This can result in expensive damage and even fires when electric cables are damaged.

House mice like to know the area where they live and will familiarise themselves with their home surroundings; in most cases activity will be restricted to a radius of up to 10 m. They use the same familiar pathways. This produces smear marks by the continual rubbing of their fur against surfaces.

In urban areas, house mice are able to breed throughout the year, producing between 5 and 10 litters each of about 4-8 young. They can live for more than two years, though the average life span is about 10 months.

House mice are inquisitive animals with sporadic and unpredictable feeding habits and will feed from numerous different sites each night rather than one or two sites close to their nest. They will feed on almost anything, but generally prefer cereal based foods such as grass and canary seed. In some urban areas they have become unable to digest cereal based food, preferring high protein foods instead. These house mice have been termed 'behaviourally resistant' because their avoidance of normal foods seems to be genetically based.

How to prevent an infestation

  • Don't leave open food out in the kitchen overnight
  • Don't leave uneaten meals intended for a pet cat or a dog in dishes out overnight
  • Remove all food and waste spillages as they occur 
  • Empty food waste bins in the kitchen etc frequently 
  • Store food in rodent proof containers
  • Ensure that refuse is not allowed to accumulate in the yard or garden
  • Seal structural defects in the house to prevent mice gaining access to your home (mice can squeeze through gaps in excess of 5 mm).

If signs of infestation are noticed, for example, fresh mouse droppings, gnaw or smear marks, take immediate action to control the infestation.

How can I treat them?

Mouse poisons* can be bought from most supermarkets, hardware stores and garden centres. Baits should be placed in several locations and checked every 4 to 5 days and replenished accordingly until no further poison is taken and mice are no longer active.

Traps are also readily available and should be positioned in several locations around the infested site.

Make sure traps and poisons are located away from children, pets and other wildlife.

*Always refer to the product instructions BEFORE use and follow these at ALL times.

Rats

Rats are a hazard to public health. They can transmit a number of diseases which can be potentially fatal to man, such as Weil's disease. They also carry disease organisms such as Salmonella bacteria, viruses and parasites such as worms and fleas.

In an urban environment rats readily find food from a variety of sources such as refuse from commercial kitchens and restaurants, discarded takeaway food in addition to scavenging in domestic refuse or in drains and sewers.

Rats will burrow, especially into soil, compost heaps, under coverings such as paved areas and under sheds. Gas and water pipes are also at risk and rat burrowing can undermine building foundations. They can be frequently found living inside buildings in the cavity between walls and in roof spaces, or beneath piles of rubbish, near water, or in drains and sewers. Due to their agility and ability to squeeze through small openings it is sometimes difficult to keep rats out of buildings without some form of rodent proofing being carried out.

Rats have very hard incisor teeth which can penetrate materials such as concrete, lead and aluminium. This can result in expensive damage and even fires when electric cables are damaged.

Rats can breed quickly, and a healthy female can produce five litters a year, each of 8 to 10 young with offspring attaining sexual maturity in 8 to 12 weeks.

It is quite easy for infestations to build up without ever noticing a rat - their nocturnal habit tends to keep them away from the human contact. If a rat is seen during the day, it is usually an indicator of a sizeable infestation. Signs of an infestation may include droppings, gnaw marks, runs and smears marks produced by the continual rubbing of their fur against surfaces.

How to prevent an infestation:

  • Ensure that all defective drainage to your home is promptly repaired, such as broken drainpipes, and drainage chamber covers 
  • Ensure your bin is emptied regularly, and refuse is not allowed to accumulate in the yard or garden
  • Seal structural defects in the house to prevent rats gaining access to your home
  • If feeding wild birds in your garden, you should use suspended wire feeders, not put food directly on the ground, use only enough bird food for the day and clear any spillages 

Removing easily accessible food and eliminating shelter for rats are among the most basic and important preventative measures.

Silverfish

What are they? 

 

Silverfish are slender, wingless insects, shiny silver in appearance, approximately 10 mm long with three, long bristletails at the end of their body.

They can be found in moist places such as kitchens and bathrooms, underneath floors, sinks, in cupboards, and along pipes where they hide during the day and feed during the night. They are extremely fast runners and are sometimes seen trapped in wash hand basins or baths as they are unable to climb out.

Silverfish are scavengers and can cause damage in the home by eating materials such as wallpaper, or books and other starchy materials. They seldom damage fibres of animal origin such as wool or hair. Damage often appears as irregular patches removed from wallpaper or irregular and notched edges on wallpaper or other paper products.

Tell tale sign of silverfish include scales, excrement, or yellowish stains on paper or fabric.

A female will lay less than 100 eggs during her lifetime depositing them in damp and warm places such as cracks and crevices or behind skirting boards.

The eggs hatch after two to eight weeks depending upon conditions. The lifecycle being completed within three to four months in warm humid conditions, or within two to three years in cooler dryer conditions. Newly hatched insects are about 2 mm long and look like miniature adults. They live for between three or four months in warm humid conditions but for between two and three years in cooler, dryer areas.

The insects and their eggs can be brought into the home in cardboard boxes, books, papers, starched and rayon fabrics, and other carbohydrate materials.

Can I treat them?

Prevent silverfish by clearing up areas where wood, cardboard boxes, old papers or books are stored, and where there is evidence of insect activity. You can treat silverfish with insecticide*, applying it to areas such as cracks, crevices, under shelves around sinks, skirting boards, window frames, and where pipes pass through walls.

*Always refer to the product instructions BEFORE use and follow these at ALL times.

Last Updated on Thursday, December 19, 2024